Posts Tagged ‘ Berlin ’

Sustainability in Fashion – Vogue.it

See on Scoop.itModa Sostenibile

Sustainability in Fashion: il master sull’avvenire della moda dell’Esmod di Berlino (RT @34Chic: Sustainability in Fashion http://t.co/UcPUItaSto)

See on www.vogue.it

Sustainability in January fashion and textile shows

Pitti Uomo: it is undoubtedly one of the most important male fashion shows, but it is slow in embracing the arguments of sustainable fashion. Are just a few the brands who use their choices in this direction as pillars of their communication strategy. Consequently we can meet only few sustainable collections. Among them: the Italians of 500gr with their new 100% recycled wool collection (at their second year); Uniforms For The Dedicated with an increased use of sustainable materials – from 21 to 51% – including hemp, recycled cotton and pet, nuts instead of horn buttons etc.; Cushe, a british footwear company, increases their sustainable offer with Shucoon a sport shoe realized according to their new project C.L.I.M.A.T.E. – Containing Low Impact Materials And Thinking Environmentally; and Landini, in collaboration with ASAP – as sustainable as possible, presented a new line of extra-light scarves in pure cashmere dyed with natural colours from herbs, roots and leaves in full respect of the environment.

Pitti Bimbo: Also this season the organizers proposed EcoEthic section dedicated to those kids collections where ethics and eco-sustainability are basic elements. Here we find brands from all over the world that use organic and sustainable materials respecting the environment and the people, contributing, with a certified supply chain, to support local productions and small communities. The brands are: Alta Rosa, Corral de Pollitos, Frilo Swiss-made, Inch Blue, Kidiwi, Kite, NaturaPura, Nixie Clothing, Paola Maria, Småfolk, Stregatoccacolore, Veja.

Pitti Filati: It seamed clear after July edition, that attention to sustainability would have been a common theme through out the event. Unfortunately we noticed that the section dedicated to these issues is no longer present. Among the exhibitors already there in July, at the moment only Tintoria di Quaregna is present. Of course there will be many recycled wool producers, but how many will focus on the sustainability aspect of their work in their communication and sales strategy?

Who’s Next Paris: the continuous rush to anticipate the collection presentations brought the WSN Developpement group to move Who’s next event from the usual February and September to January and July, more and more distant from the catwalks week. This radical change and the acquisition of Pret a Proter Paris has signed the end of So Ethic, one of the most important sections dedicated entirely to sustainable fashion in an event of this kind.
Despite all what has not change is the number of sustainable brands, stating once for all, that dedicated events are on one side very important and interesting for press, public and brands, but on the other side not necessarily the best form of promotion and selling.
Many the brands, some italians too, present at Who’s Next different shows: L’Herbe Rouge, Les Racines Du Ciel, Misericordia, Komodo, Veja, Tudo Bom?, Toms, Ombre Claire, Pachacuti, Po-Zu, Swedish Hasbeens, and the italians Dalaleo, Hell’s Kitchen and for sure many others.

A special note deserves the Dutch project Green Orange that also for this season brought a growing number of young designers and brands from the Nederlands to the Paris event. They are 28 companies that supported by the Dutch government represent the sustainability avant-garde of Dutch design. Among the others Elementum by Daniela Pais, Studio Jux, YXN, Lonits of Holland.

Berlin: The Berlin Fashion Week is monopolized by the usual two largest events – Premium and Bread and Butter – but sees, in this edition more the ever, a flourishing of small and medium events distributed though out the city, Some are new others well established and in this scenario sustainable fashion has a role anything but marginal.
GreenShowroom confirms it’s reached maturity welcoming a limited but well selected number of brands where luxury and sustainability are deeply interconnected. Stands out the presence of Stewart+Brown, american organic cotton pioneers at what it’s probably one of their first shows in the old continent. Other participants were: Reet Aus, Royalblush, and the Italians of Right as Rain.

Ethical Fashion Show Berlin: For sure the absolute new entry in this Berlin Fashion Week edition. It is the second event that Messe Frankfurt dedicates to sustainable fashion in town, after GreenShowroom. It is as well the first real experiment in exporting from Paris the event created by Isabelle Quéhé back in 2004, not considering the partially unsuccessful attempt in Milan in February 2009. Within the list of the exhibitors some well known brands like *MILCH, Elementum, Studio Jux, Komodo, Hemp Age, Helvetas e Banuq by Atelier Awash and few interesting new faces like the underwear of BUTTWRAPBERLIN and the organic collection with mongolian inspiration of ‘room to roam’.
The presence of sustainable brands does not end with the two dedicated shows, but invades slowly and relentlessly all other fashion events. To conduct the visitors in this journey one guide above all: Berlin Fashion Week Eco Guide realized by Beyond Berlin an agency for sustainable fashion and lifestyle. Many the brands already present at the Paris shows as well as the well established and interesting ones from People Tree, to the Italians of Reale; from Noir to Nudie Jeans, all together more then 100 brands distributed in 8 events.

Milk Fiber: eco or not? 2.0

In Milk Fiber: eco or not? of the 24 March 2011, Ethicalista has already been addressing the sustainability concerns of Milk Fiber.

During this last summer many blogs, magazines and journalists have been talking extensively about the German fashion designer Anke Domaske who realized the latest collection of her Mademoiselle Chi Chi entirely with an apparently innovative Milk Fiber created by her and her team called QMilch.

This is part of a today Reuters article where she clearly states that Qmilch is completely natural and ecofriendly.

Milk fabric has been around since the 1930s but was always produced in unecological ways that used a lot of chemicals. Unlike earlier prototypes, QMilch is made almost entirely from casein.

“We have developed an all-natural fiber consisting of a very high concentration of casein, with a few other natural ingredients — and in only two years,” the former microbiology student Domaske said.

The casein is extracted from dried milk powder and then heated up in a type of meat-mincing machine with other natural ingredients. The fiber comes out in strands and is then spun into yarn on a spinning machine.

Domaske said it would take about 6 liters of milk to produce an entire dress, which costs about 150 euros($199) to 200 euros.

Luckily, for that kind of money, the clothes don’t come with an expiry date — during the heating process, the molecules bind in such a way that the protein won’t decompose.

Due to its anti-bacterial qualities, the milk fiber can also be used in medicine and makeup. Even some auto companies have looked into using the fiber for car upholstery.

(Reporting By Natalia Drozdiak, editing by Paul Casciato, for REUTERS )

Here after Anke Domaske interview at Deutsche Welle

The New Face of the Paris Fashion Shows without SoEthic!

Only a week after the official closure of Paris Fashion Shows, the british based online magazine Fashion United publishes what they consider “a clarification of the Paris offerings is required” now that all the shows held at Porte de Versailles are under the owner WSN Développement. Two major revolutions; the first concerns the dates of the shows that will move to January and June/July, coinciding with both Florence and Berlin Shows; the second is that the Eco-Ethical section named SoEthic, part of Prêt-à-porter Paris, will disappear.

Far from being a sudden cold shower, most of the specialist exhibitors in the sustainable markets will welcome the idea of being “in the spotlight” and being 100% involved in fashion.  In this regard, a fair number of leaders in the sector, such as Clémentine Nguyen, founder of the brand Sobosibio, refuse to be confined to the “eco-fanatic” label. If Clémentine was not tempted to take a stand on the Ethical Fashion Show (Messe Frankfurt), held from 1 to 4 September at the Carrousel du Louvre, it is because the show is no longer “professional enough or to do with fashion”.

On one side the “ghettoization” risk is high for sustainable fashion brands if consigned in small and wrongly timed shows, on the other it is not totally clear why to make coincide the Paris shows with the Berlin and Florence once. Many are the buyers and brands that would participate in all these shows each season. It is not necessarily a positive sign a monopolization of the market.

To read the full article check Fashion United page.

Banuq, Sass Brown and Italy

What do a Berlin label and a british Designer/Academic have to do with each other?

The simple connection is Italy and of course Ethical Fashion.

Banuq is a Berlin based, sustainable menswear brand, founded in 2007 by two Italians Davide Grazioli and Mauro Pavesi.banuq

Sass Brown, autor of Eco Fashion – probably the most interesting book on the subject of the last years, is the Resident Director for the Fashion Institute of Technology’s study abroad program in Florence.

To better understand both this is what Sass Brown writes about Banuq in her blog.

Banuq on Ecofashiontalk

Banuq is a sustainable menswear fashion label founded in Berlin in 2007 by two Italians, Davide Grazioli and Mauro Pavesi. The collection is based on the concept of classic and timeless garments, inspired by contemporary cultural explorers, a trait the partners both embody… (continue on ecofashiontalk)

Notes from THEKEY.TO

The 4th edition of THEKEY.TO, international event for green fashion, sustainable lifestyle and culture, has been a great Conspiracy!

It has been a nice occasion to meet many young designers at their first show and well established brands from all over Europe. This and the substantial amount of innovative ideas presented, were the most appealing.

On the first day, after the press conference at the presence of the former German “Minister for consumer protection” and patron of the fair, Renate Künast, few brands had the chance to showcase their designs in a simple and fascinating catwalk.

Roaming between the different stands was possible to notice the presence of individual designers as well as of a couple of agencies there to represent different brands. Many choose recycling as their primary approach to Ethical Fashion – from sox to military blankets, from ties to car interiors. Others pointed everything on organic and natural materials: cotton, wool and silk were the most represented. But for sure the most important part of the work was directed by all brands towards innovative materials and creative design.

As per the other editions, THEKEY.TO Conspiracy! is not only trade show, but also a meeting point for many and an occasion for networking with brands, designers, boggers, journalists, consultants among others. The different workshops and the boot camp offered a good chance to deepen some aspects of ethical fashion and get to know new initiatives and best practices. The time spent listening to Summer Rayne Oakes explaining her project Source4Style gave to all participants a clear and sound vision of what this is all about.

Praising all brands (here the whole list) for their great achievements and for being part of the Conspiracy, we would like to mention – beside the five Italian brands already mentioned in a previous post – a few that really stroke us:

  • Elementum a clothing collection based on the total use of a piece of a cloth where minimum cuts provide maximum use. Amazing alpaca wool for winter and soft organic cotton jersey for summer to wrap your body letting you play with the simple lines and cuts of these pieces.
  • Steinwidder from unwanted sox to the most innovative and appealing clothing. The architectural construction of each piece of the collection reflects the the unicity of the row material. The final result can at times look curious but is of sure effect.
  • Reet Aus A very interesting and challenging recycled denim collection from Estonia. Unexpected and fresh design takes up-cycled denim to a totally new level. Reet Aus
  • Isabell de Hillerin is working with local Romanian manufacturers to support the production of handmade materials. She adds traditional Romanian embroidery to her designs. The end result, for her new collection called ‘Patina’, is a fascinating mixture of elegance and tradition, sculptured cuts and draped materials.

THEKEY.TO CONSPIRACY 20-22 JAN 2011 COLUMBIAHALLE BERLIN

THEKEY.TO is the international fair for green fashion, sustainable lifestyle and culture in Berlin and has established itself firmly as part of the Berlin Fashion Week programme. Already it is recognised as one of the most important platforms in its sector – The world of Green Fashion.

THEKEY.TO CONSPIRACY offers the upheaval a forum: ”It is a good-hearted Conspiracy.”, says Gereon Pilz van der Grinten, founder of THEKEY.TO: “Pioneering brands, innovative chains of distribution and influential networks team up at THEKEY.TO to a powerful, ever growing commu- nity. We want to mobilize, and by this give the evolution of a ‘world- conscious’ fashion the neces- sary impulse: The growth of the industry is to change the world.”

Frans Prins, founder of THEKEY.TO: “Since initiating THEKEY.TO two years ago the number of green fashion brands presented at the Berlin Fashion Week has increased from 20 to more than 100. The conventional industry is slowly following suit with their own eco-offerings. Green fashion is proving to be not only a trend, and is starting to make its way into the mainstay of society. THEKEY.TO offers the growing industry a foundation for economic success and inspiration and buying agents a high-grade choice in innovation.”

We are a conspiratorial sustainable-fashion-mob disguised as a trade show

The Italian presence at this winter edition includes some very interesting brands:

 

%d bloggers like this: