Posts Tagged ‘ Florence ’

Pitti Uomo & sustainable brands

Time passes really quick and also the gap between posts grows…

And the season for fashion show is back, as usual everything starts from the man collections and of course Pitti Uomo in Florence leads the way in time, style and business!

Browsing the exhibitors list we find many different sustainable brands, few new ones and others usual suspects…

Edun will present their entire collection where the “Made in Africa” line is the most attractive.

Already met in White and other shows, Claudio Cutuli with their vegetable dyed scarfs and the recycling mastes of Silent People and Saisei.

Also focusing on recycled materials Momaboma and Fondo 9 will present their accessories collections.

Different styles and looks, from basics to casual to formal for Alternative Apparel, Haikure and Uniforms for the Dedicated 

Numbers of sustainable exhibiters are growing as well as the undiscussed importance of this event in the fashion calendar.

But let’s not forget shoes and is nice to see Veja with their fair trade sneakers and accessories in an Italian show.

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Sustainability in January fashion and textile shows

Pitti Uomo: it is undoubtedly one of the most important male fashion shows, but it is slow in embracing the arguments of sustainable fashion. Are just a few the brands who use their choices in this direction as pillars of their communication strategy. Consequently we can meet only few sustainable collections. Among them: the Italians of 500gr with their new 100% recycled wool collection (at their second year); Uniforms For The Dedicated with an increased use of sustainable materials – from 21 to 51% – including hemp, recycled cotton and pet, nuts instead of horn buttons etc.; Cushe, a british footwear company, increases their sustainable offer with Shucoon a sport shoe realized according to their new project C.L.I.M.A.T.E. – Containing Low Impact Materials And Thinking Environmentally; and Landini, in collaboration with ASAP – as sustainable as possible, presented a new line of extra-light scarves in pure cashmere dyed with natural colours from herbs, roots and leaves in full respect of the environment.

Pitti Bimbo: Also this season the organizers proposed EcoEthic section dedicated to those kids collections where ethics and eco-sustainability are basic elements. Here we find brands from all over the world that use organic and sustainable materials respecting the environment and the people, contributing, with a certified supply chain, to support local productions and small communities. The brands are: Alta Rosa, Corral de Pollitos, Frilo Swiss-made, Inch Blue, Kidiwi, Kite, NaturaPura, Nixie Clothing, Paola Maria, Småfolk, Stregatoccacolore, Veja.

Pitti Filati: It seamed clear after July edition, that attention to sustainability would have been a common theme through out the event. Unfortunately we noticed that the section dedicated to these issues is no longer present. Among the exhibitors already there in July, at the moment only Tintoria di Quaregna is present. Of course there will be many recycled wool producers, but how many will focus on the sustainability aspect of their work in their communication and sales strategy?

Who’s Next Paris: the continuous rush to anticipate the collection presentations brought the WSN Developpement group to move Who’s next event from the usual February and September to January and July, more and more distant from the catwalks week. This radical change and the acquisition of Pret a Proter Paris has signed the end of So Ethic, one of the most important sections dedicated entirely to sustainable fashion in an event of this kind.
Despite all what has not change is the number of sustainable brands, stating once for all, that dedicated events are on one side very important and interesting for press, public and brands, but on the other side not necessarily the best form of promotion and selling.
Many the brands, some italians too, present at Who’s Next different shows: L’Herbe Rouge, Les Racines Du Ciel, Misericordia, Komodo, Veja, Tudo Bom?, Toms, Ombre Claire, Pachacuti, Po-Zu, Swedish Hasbeens, and the italians Dalaleo, Hell’s Kitchen and for sure many others.

A special note deserves the Dutch project Green Orange that also for this season brought a growing number of young designers and brands from the Nederlands to the Paris event. They are 28 companies that supported by the Dutch government represent the sustainability avant-garde of Dutch design. Among the others Elementum by Daniela Pais, Studio Jux, YXN, Lonits of Holland.

Berlin: The Berlin Fashion Week is monopolized by the usual two largest events – Premium and Bread and Butter – but sees, in this edition more the ever, a flourishing of small and medium events distributed though out the city, Some are new others well established and in this scenario sustainable fashion has a role anything but marginal.
GreenShowroom confirms it’s reached maturity welcoming a limited but well selected number of brands where luxury and sustainability are deeply interconnected. Stands out the presence of Stewart+Brown, american organic cotton pioneers at what it’s probably one of their first shows in the old continent. Other participants were: Reet Aus, Royalblush, and the Italians of Right as Rain.

Ethical Fashion Show Berlin: For sure the absolute new entry in this Berlin Fashion Week edition. It is the second event that Messe Frankfurt dedicates to sustainable fashion in town, after GreenShowroom. It is as well the first real experiment in exporting from Paris the event created by Isabelle Quéhé back in 2004, not considering the partially unsuccessful attempt in Milan in February 2009. Within the list of the exhibitors some well known brands like *MILCH, Elementum, Studio Jux, Komodo, Hemp Age, Helvetas e Banuq by Atelier Awash and few interesting new faces like the underwear of BUTTWRAPBERLIN and the organic collection with mongolian inspiration of ‘room to roam’.
The presence of sustainable brands does not end with the two dedicated shows, but invades slowly and relentlessly all other fashion events. To conduct the visitors in this journey one guide above all: Berlin Fashion Week Eco Guide realized by Beyond Berlin an agency for sustainable fashion and lifestyle. Many the brands already present at the Paris shows as well as the well established and interesting ones from People Tree, to the Italians of Reale; from Noir to Nudie Jeans, all together more then 100 brands distributed in 8 events.

The New Face of the Paris Fashion Shows without SoEthic!

Only a week after the official closure of Paris Fashion Shows, the british based online magazine Fashion United publishes what they consider “a clarification of the Paris offerings is required” now that all the shows held at Porte de Versailles are under the owner WSN Développement. Two major revolutions; the first concerns the dates of the shows that will move to January and June/July, coinciding with both Florence and Berlin Shows; the second is that the Eco-Ethical section named SoEthic, part of Prêt-à-porter Paris, will disappear.

Far from being a sudden cold shower, most of the specialist exhibitors in the sustainable markets will welcome the idea of being “in the spotlight” and being 100% involved in fashion.  In this regard, a fair number of leaders in the sector, such as Clémentine Nguyen, founder of the brand Sobosibio, refuse to be confined to the “eco-fanatic” label. If Clémentine was not tempted to take a stand on the Ethical Fashion Show (Messe Frankfurt), held from 1 to 4 September at the Carrousel du Louvre, it is because the show is no longer “professional enough or to do with fashion”.

On one side the “ghettoization” risk is high for sustainable fashion brands if consigned in small and wrongly timed shows, on the other it is not totally clear why to make coincide the Paris shows with the Berlin and Florence once. Many are the buyers and brands that would participate in all these shows each season. It is not necessarily a positive sign a monopolization of the market.

To read the full article check Fashion United page.

Ethical Kids Fashion @ Pitti Bimbo

Also in the 73rd edition of Pitti Bimbo there will be an interesting section for eco-ethical kids clothing. This prestigious kids fashion show, opening in Florence from June 23rd to the 25th, will guest in the central pavilion all eco-ethical collections from famous italian and international brands.

EcoEthic at Pitti Bimbo is the expression of the eco-evolution of baby fashion, a selection of collections that have chosen ethics and eco-friendliness as their cornerstone. These are companies from all over the world that use organic and bio materials produced with respect for nature and as part of a supply chain that protects local products and small communities as well as safeguarding the planet.
PITTI IMMAGINE 

Here the brands of the EcoEthic sections, an interesting mix of Italian and European companies presenting organic and hand made kids clothes and accessories:

Bubino – Fatto con amore in Italia

Frilo Swissmade

Jolie Poupée

Inch Blue

Katvig

Kidiwi

Kite

Mon Petit Bébé

Naturapura

Paola Maria

Vincent et Olive

Banuq, Sass Brown and Italy

What do a Berlin label and a british Designer/Academic have to do with each other?

The simple connection is Italy and of course Ethical Fashion.

Banuq is a Berlin based, sustainable menswear brand, founded in 2007 by two Italians Davide Grazioli and Mauro Pavesi.banuq

Sass Brown, autor of Eco Fashion – probably the most interesting book on the subject of the last years, is the Resident Director for the Fashion Institute of Technology’s study abroad program in Florence.

To better understand both this is what Sass Brown writes about Banuq in her blog.

Banuq on Ecofashiontalk

Banuq is a sustainable menswear fashion label founded in Berlin in 2007 by two Italians, Davide Grazioli and Mauro Pavesi. The collection is based on the concept of classic and timeless garments, inspired by contemporary cultural explorers, a trait the partners both embody… (continue on ecofashiontalk)

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