Posts Tagged ‘ Milan Fashion Week ’

Moda sostenibile: la parola d’ordine è unire «etica ed estetica»

See on Scoop.itModa Sostenibile

Il presidente della Camera nazionale della moda: «Siamo al momento della presa di coscienza su processi e materiali»

See on www.corriere.it

forgotten fabrics rebirth – Saisei

Saisei in Japanese means rebirth-recovery. This was exactly what Giorgia Palmirani had in mind when in her Bologna workshop started this new and unexpected accessories brand.

Old unused kits, scraps of historical workshops, old materials, military tents and army fabrics carrying the signs and taste of the time, yet carrying their glorious, never lost story.

All this is turned into comfortable large and stylish handcrafted bags. At White in Milan and Tranoï in Paris Saisei is presenting the new fall/winter 2012/13 collection.

Mash – Assembled selecting the essential parts of old Italian army tents (including: writings, studs, etc….) once finely manufactured, all bags undergo the exclusive in capo waxing and colouring processing, to reach their final and unique look yet clearly showing the original features of the fabric.

Vespucci – Here the material is the hemp fabric recovered from the Vespucci school ship old sails,then dyed and waxed through the same exclusive process.

Paint – the same hemp fabric is hand painted with strokes of acrylic paint and then also finished with wax.

Simple shapes for big-size bags a sort of container for all past and present stories, where continuity and and history find their common thread.

a colourful White Show @ Milan Fashion Week

This Fall/Winter 2012/13 Fashion Week in Milan arrived at its close just yesterday and it’s now time to try to evaluate how sustainability was felt and its promoters lived the show.

Many articles wrote about the lack of foreign visitors, about the absence of the Japanese and how the Chinese invasion they expected did not happen. Despite this dark perspectives, the presence of national and international buyers, top journalist and bloggers in town was clearly felt and the visit they all paid to White is a clear sign that this event remains the place where to find new tendencies and most creative design.

It was not a case that most, if not all, sustainable brands did choose this particular show to promote themselves and their collections. Beside the well established and strongly present C.L.A.S.S. section (with 13 exhibitors), the event could count on 11 brands for which design and product really merge with attention to people and environment, that counts for around 10% of all exhibitors.

Material research, traditional craftsmen skills and innovative design where the key aspects an which all brands developed their new collections. Claudio Cutuli scarves and their secular vegetable dyeing tradition, Silent People extracting all possible beauty from old leather garments turning them into bags and purses or Sennes giving new life to portuguese wool production creating elegant accessories, these just few examples of how sustainability can actually be conjugated to create beautiful fashion.

The outcomes of the meeting between design and artisanal work in two collaborations were very impressing: Dalaleo joined with Michela Bruni to create an incredible new line of fashion jewellery. km/a consolidate their partnership with Italian shoe artist/artisan Andrea Verdura in a collection where leather and reclaimed material really find new a connection.

Stay tuned for more news on selected brands.

Approaching Milan Fashion Week

Fashion season in reaching its climax in these weeks, after the great beginning in north of Europe is now time for New York and Milan. For sure Sustainability is receiving a privileged place in these season and the large amount of articles and reportages issued are a proof of it.

This morning with a press conference at Milan Municipality the upcoming edition of White Milan was lunched. In the opening words of Stefanio Boeri – municipal councilor for culture – he clearly stated that Milan must be proud and attentive to Fashion, Creativity and Sustainability as expression of culture and business. This lead the speech of Massimiliano Bizzi – White Group President – in introducing all aspects of this season edition of the show.

Saisei

Saisei

Of course the section White Goes Green with C.L.A.S.S. is the sustainability manifesto of this event, without forgetting that are many the exhibitors who will take part in the other areas of White, mixing themselves with all the other brands and excelling in terms of design and research. From Dalaleo to km/a , from Silent People to Saisei, from Regenesi to Giulia Rien à Mettre – moving to white from Touch! Neozone Cloudnine.

This season the Pitti Immagine organized event will host for the second time Green Closet, event dedicated to UK Ethical Fashion, organized by the British Consulate General Milan and UK Trade & Investment (UKTI). All together there will be represented some 15 brands – individually, by distributors or collectives – with the special by Vivianne Westwood with her bags collection produced for the Ethical Fashion Africa Project.

White and its sustainable partner C.L.A.S.S. will also go international and in these next days will start a new adventure in New York part of the Fashion Week and liked to Fashion Coterie. A total of 50 brands – 3 under the umbrella of White Goes Green with C.L.A.S.S. – and a special event, a panel organized by Parsons The New School for Design on “Rethinking Fashion: Design Responsibility”. To introduce this at the press conference was present also James Mandolia, Fashion Marketing Director at Parsons.

In Milan White becomes Green

White fashion show in since ever the most innovative event during Milan Fashion Week.

Already in 2007 thanks to From Somewhere designers Orsola de Castro and Filippo Ricci, White started a small section dedicated to Sustainable fashion called SloWhite, but lasted just one season. Later in february 2009 Ethical Fashion Show attempted a “number zero” in collaboration with White, with more or less the same result. Press coverage was interesting but the little business generated convinced both parts not to repeat the event.

In all these years C-L-A-S-S, with their peculiar concept of sustainability, continued to curate a small section as part of the main event, involving diverse and often interesting brands.

Now a new section has been created. White Green will present 17 brands (@ the 11 sept 2011), most usually part of Selection by C.L.A.S.S. and few new entries. Interesting how some sustainable brands like km/a and Caira Design decided not to be included in this section.

km/a undercover

The Green Closet @ Touch! neoZone

Thanks to an initiative of the British Consulate-General Milan it is possible to admire a selection of eight sustainable designers and brands as part of Milan Fashion City, exactly with-in Touch! neoZone, a dedicated area organized in collaboration with Pitti Immagine.

Eight designers for probably the most interesting Ethical Fashion event ever in Milan. The brand selection done by Marina Iremonger, Trade advisor, Head of Fashion and Design Unit at the British Consulate – General Milan, brought to The Green Closet both apparel and accessories with different and very interesting look.

Eco-friendly are the rare Peace Silk, Modal™ and Bemberg™ chiffon fabrics in the Ivana Basilotta collection; the Ecology Undyed and the Supersoft Shetland used for Eribé knitwear, and the organic jersey of People Tree garments. You can be green also when choosing production techniques that have a low environmental impact as in the up cycling process adopted by Ciel and From Somewhere. Vegetable tanned leathers characterise the collection designed by Henrietta Ludgate. Hand skills like weaving, knitting and embroidery are prominent in People Tree designs, a fashion brand that actively supports Fair Trade. With the help and cooperation of famous designers like Bora Aksu and Orla Kiely, People Tree has become a glamorous and trendy label. Industrial waste is the material used for the necklace – defined as the Next pashmina – created by designer Jianhui with hundreds of tiny, ethically-sourced, recycled and lightweight wood chippings. To recycle and intricately weave the precious and the discarded is also the ethos behind the fashion jewellery made by Little Glass Clementine.

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A chance to see in Italy, beside the new collection, the work of Orsola De Castro – the (italian) design soul behind From Somewhere – done in collaboration with Speedo in up-cycling their LZR. People Tree, now in stores (abroad) with their summer 2010 collection including the last Emma Watson designed range, presented a capsule of the work done in collaboration with Bora Aksu and Orla Kiely. Ciel showed a new range of recycled polyester jackets while Henrietta Ludgate and Ivan Basilotta focused on beautiful structured and architectural design, keeping the attention of the viewer on the form and the flow of the garment. The accessories of Little Glass Clementine and Jianhui gave the change of imagining complete looks within The Green Closet. Worth to underline the scottish knitwear presented by Eribé, a contemporary look on traditional apparel and accessories.

The high expectations from such event were met and the presence of many press and buyers – most busy making orders – gives the vision on how also the Italian market and fashion system are actually ready to receive well done, design oriented, beautiful Ethical Fashion.

Milan Fashion Week: en-YOJ, a/w 11-12 new collection

Milan Fashion Week this year renamed Milan Fashion City managed to finally gather under one single “umbrella” all different events, fairs, catwalks and presentations. This busy and intense calendar offer few occasions to admire the new collections of Ethical Fashion brands.

Let’s start with YOJ by Laura Strambi: 

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Details, research and design are the key elements of this new collection. The graphics printed on silk dresses and blouses, also in a limited painted edition, are smooth and soft as the fabric that carries them. The neck line falling all the way to the front moves the artist work, giving to it always a new look. The use of abaca and sophisticated but traditional scottish wool gives to the entire range of clothes both a soft and rough touch that meets very gently.

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