Posts Tagged ‘ Paris ’

forgotten fabrics rebirth – Saisei

Saisei in Japanese means rebirth-recovery. This was exactly what Giorgia Palmirani had in mind when in her Bologna workshop started this new and unexpected accessories brand.

Old unused kits, scraps of historical workshops, old materials, military tents and army fabrics carrying the signs and taste of the time, yet carrying their glorious, never lost story.

All this is turned into comfortable large and stylish handcrafted bags. At White in Milan and Tranoï in Paris Saisei is presenting the new fall/winter 2012/13 collection.

Mash – Assembled selecting the essential parts of old Italian army tents (including: writings, studs, etc….) once finely manufactured, all bags undergo the exclusive in capo waxing and colouring processing, to reach their final and unique look yet clearly showing the original features of the fabric.

Vespucci – Here the material is the hemp fabric recovered from the Vespucci school ship old sails,then dyed and waxed through the same exclusive process.

Paint – the same hemp fabric is hand painted with strokes of acrylic paint and then also finished with wax.

Simple shapes for big-size bags a sort of container for all past and present stories, where continuity and and history find their common thread.

Sustainability in January fashion and textile shows

Pitti Uomo: it is undoubtedly one of the most important male fashion shows, but it is slow in embracing the arguments of sustainable fashion. Are just a few the brands who use their choices in this direction as pillars of their communication strategy. Consequently we can meet only few sustainable collections. Among them: the Italians of 500gr with their new 100% recycled wool collection (at their second year); Uniforms For The Dedicated with an increased use of sustainable materials – from 21 to 51% – including hemp, recycled cotton and pet, nuts instead of horn buttons etc.; Cushe, a british footwear company, increases their sustainable offer with Shucoon a sport shoe realized according to their new project C.L.I.M.A.T.E. – Containing Low Impact Materials And Thinking Environmentally; and Landini, in collaboration with ASAP – as sustainable as possible, presented a new line of extra-light scarves in pure cashmere dyed with natural colours from herbs, roots and leaves in full respect of the environment.

Pitti Bimbo: Also this season the organizers proposed EcoEthic section dedicated to those kids collections where ethics and eco-sustainability are basic elements. Here we find brands from all over the world that use organic and sustainable materials respecting the environment and the people, contributing, with a certified supply chain, to support local productions and small communities. The brands are: Alta Rosa, Corral de Pollitos, Frilo Swiss-made, Inch Blue, Kidiwi, Kite, NaturaPura, Nixie Clothing, Paola Maria, Småfolk, Stregatoccacolore, Veja.

Pitti Filati: It seamed clear after July edition, that attention to sustainability would have been a common theme through out the event. Unfortunately we noticed that the section dedicated to these issues is no longer present. Among the exhibitors already there in July, at the moment only Tintoria di Quaregna is present. Of course there will be many recycled wool producers, but how many will focus on the sustainability aspect of their work in their communication and sales strategy?

Who’s Next Paris: the continuous rush to anticipate the collection presentations brought the WSN Developpement group to move Who’s next event from the usual February and September to January and July, more and more distant from the catwalks week. This radical change and the acquisition of Pret a Proter Paris has signed the end of So Ethic, one of the most important sections dedicated entirely to sustainable fashion in an event of this kind.
Despite all what has not change is the number of sustainable brands, stating once for all, that dedicated events are on one side very important and interesting for press, public and brands, but on the other side not necessarily the best form of promotion and selling.
Many the brands, some italians too, present at Who’s Next different shows: L’Herbe Rouge, Les Racines Du Ciel, Misericordia, Komodo, Veja, Tudo Bom?, Toms, Ombre Claire, Pachacuti, Po-Zu, Swedish Hasbeens, and the italians Dalaleo, Hell’s Kitchen and for sure many others.

A special note deserves the Dutch project Green Orange that also for this season brought a growing number of young designers and brands from the Nederlands to the Paris event. They are 28 companies that supported by the Dutch government represent the sustainability avant-garde of Dutch design. Among the others Elementum by Daniela Pais, Studio Jux, YXN, Lonits of Holland.

Berlin: The Berlin Fashion Week is monopolized by the usual two largest events – Premium and Bread and Butter – but sees, in this edition more the ever, a flourishing of small and medium events distributed though out the city, Some are new others well established and in this scenario sustainable fashion has a role anything but marginal.
GreenShowroom confirms it’s reached maturity welcoming a limited but well selected number of brands where luxury and sustainability are deeply interconnected. Stands out the presence of Stewart+Brown, american organic cotton pioneers at what it’s probably one of their first shows in the old continent. Other participants were: Reet Aus, Royalblush, and the Italians of Right as Rain.

Ethical Fashion Show Berlin: For sure the absolute new entry in this Berlin Fashion Week edition. It is the second event that Messe Frankfurt dedicates to sustainable fashion in town, after GreenShowroom. It is as well the first real experiment in exporting from Paris the event created by Isabelle Quéhé back in 2004, not considering the partially unsuccessful attempt in Milan in February 2009. Within the list of the exhibitors some well known brands like *MILCH, Elementum, Studio Jux, Komodo, Hemp Age, Helvetas e Banuq by Atelier Awash and few interesting new faces like the underwear of BUTTWRAPBERLIN and the organic collection with mongolian inspiration of ‘room to roam’.
The presence of sustainable brands does not end with the two dedicated shows, but invades slowly and relentlessly all other fashion events. To conduct the visitors in this journey one guide above all: Berlin Fashion Week Eco Guide realized by Beyond Berlin an agency for sustainable fashion and lifestyle. Many the brands already present at the Paris shows as well as the well established and interesting ones from People Tree, to the Italians of Reale; from Noir to Nudie Jeans, all together more then 100 brands distributed in 8 events.

From recycled materials to Smateria

Sometimes beautiful projects and products are the result of an intuition, a coincidence and a chance. This is probably the case of Smateria. When Elisa and Jennifer, both from Italy, met in Cambodia they had no business plan nor product development schedule, just good will and a vision: helping local women earning their living through their work.

Smateria was in Paris at Ethical Fashion Show to present their new collection of fashion accessories made with fishing nets, mosquitoes nets, recycled motorbike seats and crocheted plastic bags. A wide range of bags for men and women, beautiful and strong travel accessories including the best seller weekender bag.

Everything started in 2005 from few unique pieces created by Elisa with recycled materials and Jennifer asking if she thought about selling all those beautiful things. From the obvious answer “no” to the creation of Smateria, the step was quick. It was not easy to crate from scratch a recycled material supply chain. Work organization and exports knowledge needed to be built in order to cope with large orders that immediately arrived.

Now more then 50 people are regularly involved in production and exports, products are sold worldwide and – yesterday news – they just opened a daycare center for employee’s kids in their premises.This shows how good products and good will can really make the difference and give a chance for a better life to artisans and their families.

The New Face of the Paris Fashion Shows without SoEthic!

Only a week after the official closure of Paris Fashion Shows, the british based online magazine Fashion United publishes what they consider “a clarification of the Paris offerings is required” now that all the shows held at Porte de Versailles are under the owner WSN Développement. Two major revolutions; the first concerns the dates of the shows that will move to January and June/July, coinciding with both Florence and Berlin Shows; the second is that the Eco-Ethical section named SoEthic, part of Prêt-à-porter Paris, will disappear.

Far from being a sudden cold shower, most of the specialist exhibitors in the sustainable markets will welcome the idea of being “in the spotlight” and being 100% involved in fashion.  In this regard, a fair number of leaders in the sector, such as Clémentine Nguyen, founder of the brand Sobosibio, refuse to be confined to the “eco-fanatic” label. If Clémentine was not tempted to take a stand on the Ethical Fashion Show (Messe Frankfurt), held from 1 to 4 September at the Carrousel du Louvre, it is because the show is no longer “professional enough or to do with fashion”.

On one side the “ghettoization” risk is high for sustainable fashion brands if consigned in small and wrongly timed shows, on the other it is not totally clear why to make coincide the Paris shows with the Berlin and Florence once. Many are the buyers and brands that would participate in all these shows each season. It is not necessarily a positive sign a monopolization of the market.

To read the full article check Fashion United page.

Ethical Fashion in Paris

Paris, as in each season, confirms to be innovative and avantgarde and so sustainable fashion gains each season more and more a prominent position.

This year Ethical Fashion Show moved to renown Carrousel du Louvre and from this time onwards will be seasonal and not annual. More the 100 brands and designers from all over the exhibited in a nice and cosy atmosphere, from kids fashion to accessories, from bijoux to women ware. Beside the “usual suspects” who exhibit since years, like Jux, Trading For Development, Deux filles en fil, some new entries stood out for innovative design and materials.

Kondakis, young designer based in Kenya presenting a range of clothes realized with parachute fabric or non mulberry silk dyed with vegetable colours with a complementary collection of fashion jewellery in “dead wood” (not cut but picked in the forest).

Kondakis silk dresses

Kondakis wood bangles

Doreen Mashika, a fashion accessories brand from Zanzibar where the use of traditional african wax textiles merges with an innovative and modern design.

Doreen Mashika - Clutch bags

Smateria, if up-cycling is at its heights this Cambodian brand deserves a special place in it. The use of fishing and mosquitoes nets, crocheted plastic bags and recycled motorbike seats to make bags and travel accessories gives to their collection a peculiar and charming look.

Smateria - Recycled motorbike seats begs

Smateria - Fishing net bags

In Port de Versailles, the official location of Paris pret a porter fairs, the section named So Ethic gathered more then 50 brands including Green Orange Collective where 22 Dutch designers presented their consciously produced creative fashion (among them Elementum by Daniela Pais , and Rianne De Witte), and a few interesting designers part of Now Showcase, a US based collective, extremely appealing the shoe designer Olsen Haus and the New York produced collections of Kelly Lane.

Also the new trends pavilions of Who’s Next and Premiere Class were constellated of sustainable fashion brands, from the amazing Misericordia, to the very italian ones as Heidi Ritsch, Reale slow fashion and Dalaleo.

Dalaleo - Recycled can pullrings

The growing presence of sustainable fashion brands in traditional fairs in an undoubtedly a positive sign so we ask to ourselves when will the Italian market start joining this wave with a successful fair dedicated to ethical fashion?

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