Posts Tagged ‘ recycled PET ’

Filo – a fair of threads

Fashion Weeks are still on, but the textile industry cannot wait, another circle of production has to start.
Trends have been already set, ideas have been already developed, so it is time for the yarn industry to meet their costumares, the textile producers, with their new yarns for Spring Summet 2014.
FILO – International Yarn Exhibition is a fixed appointment since many years now. It gathers in Milan more then 80 yarn producers from Italy and abroad with an increasing number of foreign exhibitors and visitors.


As usually also this 38th edition saw the presence of many sustainable products presented by almost a quarter of the companies, with an increased visibility. Many the posters and banners stating the sustainability either of the processes or of the raw materials with special attention to both the environment and the society.
This is indeed a positive sign hoping that this newly acquired input in communication will pass on to the next fase in the textile chain to reach all levels in it.
Interesting the increased use of Tencel and Modal Edelweiss in different productions and mixes. Many the companies that focused on Organic Cotton and Fair Trade Cotton giving to the buyers a large choice for both knitting and weaving. Also other natural fibres were strongly present, above all Ramiè and Hemp. Recycling is a theme touched only by a few of the exhibitors but with an interesting range of products from R-PET from plastic bottles to Recycled Cotton.
Many the international certifications presented by the producers, worth to be mentioned the “Made in Green” one.

Made in Green is a triple certificate that is unique in Europe and has been created and applied by the Textile Technology Centre, AITEX. The label certifies all manufacturing processes in three aspects: health, environmental protection and the universal human rights of workers and which, in addition, decrees that any company or product bearing the “made in Green” certificate is free of harmful substances and that the goods have been manufactured respecting the environment and the workers human rights. (from www.madeingreen.com)

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Sustainability in January fashion and textile shows

Pitti Uomo: it is undoubtedly one of the most important male fashion shows, but it is slow in embracing the arguments of sustainable fashion. Are just a few the brands who use their choices in this direction as pillars of their communication strategy. Consequently we can meet only few sustainable collections. Among them: the Italians of 500gr with their new 100% recycled wool collection (at their second year); Uniforms For The Dedicated with an increased use of sustainable materials – from 21 to 51% – including hemp, recycled cotton and pet, nuts instead of horn buttons etc.; Cushe, a british footwear company, increases their sustainable offer with Shucoon a sport shoe realized according to their new project C.L.I.M.A.T.E. – Containing Low Impact Materials And Thinking Environmentally; and Landini, in collaboration with ASAP – as sustainable as possible, presented a new line of extra-light scarves in pure cashmere dyed with natural colours from herbs, roots and leaves in full respect of the environment.

Pitti Bimbo: Also this season the organizers proposed EcoEthic section dedicated to those kids collections where ethics and eco-sustainability are basic elements. Here we find brands from all over the world that use organic and sustainable materials respecting the environment and the people, contributing, with a certified supply chain, to support local productions and small communities. The brands are: Alta Rosa, Corral de Pollitos, Frilo Swiss-made, Inch Blue, Kidiwi, Kite, NaturaPura, Nixie Clothing, Paola Maria, Småfolk, Stregatoccacolore, Veja.

Pitti Filati: It seamed clear after July edition, that attention to sustainability would have been a common theme through out the event. Unfortunately we noticed that the section dedicated to these issues is no longer present. Among the exhibitors already there in July, at the moment only Tintoria di Quaregna is present. Of course there will be many recycled wool producers, but how many will focus on the sustainability aspect of their work in their communication and sales strategy?

Who’s Next Paris: the continuous rush to anticipate the collection presentations brought the WSN Developpement group to move Who’s next event from the usual February and September to January and July, more and more distant from the catwalks week. This radical change and the acquisition of Pret a Proter Paris has signed the end of So Ethic, one of the most important sections dedicated entirely to sustainable fashion in an event of this kind.
Despite all what has not change is the number of sustainable brands, stating once for all, that dedicated events are on one side very important and interesting for press, public and brands, but on the other side not necessarily the best form of promotion and selling.
Many the brands, some italians too, present at Who’s Next different shows: L’Herbe Rouge, Les Racines Du Ciel, Misericordia, Komodo, Veja, Tudo Bom?, Toms, Ombre Claire, Pachacuti, Po-Zu, Swedish Hasbeens, and the italians Dalaleo, Hell’s Kitchen and for sure many others.

A special note deserves the Dutch project Green Orange that also for this season brought a growing number of young designers and brands from the Nederlands to the Paris event. They are 28 companies that supported by the Dutch government represent the sustainability avant-garde of Dutch design. Among the others Elementum by Daniela Pais, Studio Jux, YXN, Lonits of Holland.

Berlin: The Berlin Fashion Week is monopolized by the usual two largest events – Premium and Bread and Butter – but sees, in this edition more the ever, a flourishing of small and medium events distributed though out the city, Some are new others well established and in this scenario sustainable fashion has a role anything but marginal.
GreenShowroom confirms it’s reached maturity welcoming a limited but well selected number of brands where luxury and sustainability are deeply interconnected. Stands out the presence of Stewart+Brown, american organic cotton pioneers at what it’s probably one of their first shows in the old continent. Other participants were: Reet Aus, Royalblush, and the Italians of Right as Rain.

Ethical Fashion Show Berlin: For sure the absolute new entry in this Berlin Fashion Week edition. It is the second event that Messe Frankfurt dedicates to sustainable fashion in town, after GreenShowroom. It is as well the first real experiment in exporting from Paris the event created by Isabelle Quéhé back in 2004, not considering the partially unsuccessful attempt in Milan in February 2009. Within the list of the exhibitors some well known brands like *MILCH, Elementum, Studio Jux, Komodo, Hemp Age, Helvetas e Banuq by Atelier Awash and few interesting new faces like the underwear of BUTTWRAPBERLIN and the organic collection with mongolian inspiration of ‘room to roam’.
The presence of sustainable brands does not end with the two dedicated shows, but invades slowly and relentlessly all other fashion events. To conduct the visitors in this journey one guide above all: Berlin Fashion Week Eco Guide realized by Beyond Berlin an agency for sustainable fashion and lifestyle. Many the brands already present at the Paris shows as well as the well established and interesting ones from People Tree, to the Italians of Reale; from Noir to Nudie Jeans, all together more then 100 brands distributed in 8 events.

Quagga: from extinction to re-birth

The Quagga project aimed to create and distribute protective winter clothing highly  attentive to environmental sustainability and  ethical responsibility. The team behind this brand comes from different backgrounds but all were involved with leading international clothing brands. With time realized how the fashion industry was damaging the planet and the people and how this information was likely stating to propagate making an increasingly important part of the public more responsible.

The complexity of the manufacturing process – Quagga Team says in their website – and the use of very different materials (waterproof fabrics for outdoors, inner linings, padding, metal elements, artificial or synthetic fibres for accessories and finishings, supports for labels, and tags), makes it extremely difficult to certify the entire supply chain, as instead occurs in projects for non-complex (but still of great value – Editor’s Note) fair trade clothing, such as T-shirts, shirts, polo shirts, sweatshirts, and various accessories. This is very difficult, but not impossible, and we have succeeded in it. So much so that our efforts were rewarded with the only certification that the ICEA, the prestigious Institute for Ethical and Environmental Certification, has ever awarded to complex clothing items.

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In Quagga’s 2011-12 A/W collection, 6 different models are presented for both Men and Women. The is urban with a great attention to details and shapes. Of course the materials and manufacture are an important aspect of Quagga’s jackets and ,thanks to transparency approach the brand wants to have with its costumers, an amazing “map of suppliers” (only in Italian) shows where each component is produced, finished or tailored.

Milan Design Week: econtamination

The Design Week – Fuorisalone – is clearly the biggest event in Milan. Hundreds of thousands of people arrive from all over the world to enjoy a very democratic series of events, taking place in many different corners and contests of the City. A visitor, expert or simply curious, can enter and have a look in any showroom, space, event or other setting realized in the most temporary way possible. Many are the year long activities – from car service to artisan laboratories to shops – that close down for the Fuorisalone to rent out their spaces to some design company, collective or super brands.

In this interesting, original and chaotic atmosphere many are the initiatives where sustainability is at the root of design. We have visited the ones where the connection with fashion is stronger and since in these last years many designers have approached fashion more and more, the events to be visited are quite a few.

Econtamination is a relatively small but interesting event organized by equology – marketing and communication. Few of the brands present are either well known or interesting new entries.

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  • Beyondskin: this is probably the first time we see this UK brand in Italy. They showcased some of their shoes from the 2011 P/E collection, of course made with their special 100% recycled PET microfiber. Fresh design and attractive colours and always a nice and simple feminine touch.
  • Campeche: not at all a new entry but more and more and established certainty (see Campeche: from the past to a sustainable future). Beside the usual range of pastel colored scarves – few new summery designs available – they showcased a new line in bourette silk (in collaboration with a swiss producer) and new jacquard patterns cloth dyed – a newly introduced technique in their plant.
  • Ecoist: Another new entry in the Italian scenario. This US based company produces stylish bags and fashion accessories exclusively made with recycled chocolate bar wrappings, magazines, and many other waste materials.
  • Hell’s Kitchen: Not at all new to Ethicalista (see Tire Tubes… the italian way) presented most of their collection from the helmets – the only certified made in recycled tyre rubber in the world – as well as their notebooks and agendas lines together with HK Teck for technology addicted people who always carry a computer. Very interesting their larger bags made with an external thin layer of micro punched rubber that shows the coloured surface underneath.
  • Mitzica: a rather new brand from designer Alice Salmeri. The brand started in Palermo in 2008 using recycled fabrics produced with local workforce.
  • UroboroDesign: The use of cardboard for making design furniture is not new but the innovative lines and forms implemented by this brand gives to the entire range a fresh and original look. Beside this elements Uroboro presents an interesting line of fashion accessories all made with recycled tyre tubes, always etnochic, alternative, elegant and eye-catching. This range should definitely be added to the Tire Tubes… the italian way post.
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