Posts Tagged ‘ White ’

Silent People – the luxury side of recycling

When a raw material has intrinsic aesthetic and performance qualities and is permeated with stories and people the remaking process might seem easy and almost natural. It is at this stage when the need for vision, design and taste are most important and when experience and beauty become essential.

Silent People by Franco Armilla e Filippo Biancoli are undoubtedly representing this effort. Rigorous selective research allows them to discover vintage leather and material pieces special due to their usury and shape. This is the raw material and from here the luxury side of recycling is shown and repurposed at its best.

Bags, accessories and now also unique garment pieces are brought again to the market. Fascinating for the stories they carry and the “once forgotten” look they transmit, indeed a great example of artisanal and avant-garde aesthetics.

forgotten fabrics rebirth – Saisei

Saisei in Japanese means rebirth-recovery. This was exactly what Giorgia Palmirani had in mind when in her Bologna workshop started this new and unexpected accessories brand.

Old unused kits, scraps of historical workshops, old materials, military tents and army fabrics carrying the signs and taste of the time, yet carrying their glorious, never lost story.

All this is turned into comfortable large and stylish handcrafted bags. At White in Milan and Tranoï in Paris Saisei is presenting the new fall/winter 2012/13 collection.

Mash – Assembled selecting the essential parts of old Italian army tents (including: writings, studs, etc….) once finely manufactured, all bags undergo the exclusive in capo waxing and colouring processing, to reach their final and unique look yet clearly showing the original features of the fabric.

Vespucci – Here the material is the hemp fabric recovered from the Vespucci school ship old sails,then dyed and waxed through the same exclusive process.

Paint – the same hemp fabric is hand painted with strokes of acrylic paint and then also finished with wax.

Simple shapes for big-size bags a sort of container for all past and present stories, where continuity and and history find their common thread.

a colourful White Show @ Milan Fashion Week

This Fall/Winter 2012/13 Fashion Week in Milan arrived at its close just yesterday and it’s now time to try to evaluate how sustainability was felt and its promoters lived the show.

Many articles wrote about the lack of foreign visitors, about the absence of the Japanese and how the Chinese invasion they expected did not happen. Despite this dark perspectives, the presence of national and international buyers, top journalist and bloggers in town was clearly felt and the visit they all paid to White is a clear sign that this event remains the place where to find new tendencies and most creative design.

It was not a case that most, if not all, sustainable brands did choose this particular show to promote themselves and their collections. Beside the well established and strongly present C.L.A.S.S. section (with 13 exhibitors), the event could count on 11 brands for which design and product really merge with attention to people and environment, that counts for around 10% of all exhibitors.

Material research, traditional craftsmen skills and innovative design where the key aspects an which all brands developed their new collections. Claudio Cutuli scarves and their secular vegetable dyeing tradition, Silent People extracting all possible beauty from old leather garments turning them into bags and purses or Sennes giving new life to portuguese wool production creating elegant accessories, these just few examples of how sustainability can actually be conjugated to create beautiful fashion.

The outcomes of the meeting between design and artisanal work in two collaborations were very impressing: Dalaleo joined with Michela Bruni to create an incredible new line of fashion jewellery. km/a consolidate their partnership with Italian shoe artist/artisan Andrea Verdura in a collection where leather and reclaimed material really find new a connection.

Stay tuned for more news on selected brands.

war and post war inspiration for Giulia rien à mettre F/W 2012

It is a great pleasure to introduce the new collection by Giulia rien à mettre, their attention to details, colours, fabrics and of course overall sustainability. The inspiration comes from war and post war fashion, austerity and elegance for a timeless look.

The dresses have the allure of a governess and the charm of a spy woman. Pencil skirts, padded shoulders, defined waistlines, hemlines reaching the knee and a slim-fit rigorous silhouette.

The color – during war years – was considered frivolous, this collection dares to play with unexpected combinations of colors like emerald, camel, burgundy and orange.

To celebrate femininity in curvy tailoring, attenuating the rigidity that characterized the previous decade, Giulia rien à mettre added a glimpse into the 50s essence with ample skirts, combining modern elegance with a timeless femininity.

A collection that expresses the contrasting dualism of the woman, ethereal but yet self-confident: the impalpable fabrics like silk and hemp organdy are contrasted to those more textured such as hemp and wool, and earth tones color palette are juxtaposed to strong colors.

The choice of Aimsha Silk shows continuity with Giulia’s previous works. Hemp is probably the most sustainable natural fiber available and is no surprise to it used extensively in both light and heavier fabrics.

As already mentioned in a previous post, Giulia rien à mettre will be showing at White Milano (Superstudio più – Via Tortona 27) stand 104, and at Progetto Showroom – Via Archimede 6, Milan.

Approaching Milan Fashion Week

Fashion season in reaching its climax in these weeks, after the great beginning in north of Europe is now time for New York and Milan. For sure Sustainability is receiving a privileged place in these season and the large amount of articles and reportages issued are a proof of it.

This morning with a press conference at Milan Municipality the upcoming edition of White Milan was lunched. In the opening words of Stefanio Boeri – municipal councilor for culture – he clearly stated that Milan must be proud and attentive to Fashion, Creativity and Sustainability as expression of culture and business. This lead the speech of Massimiliano Bizzi – White Group President – in introducing all aspects of this season edition of the show.

Saisei

Saisei

Of course the section White Goes Green with C.L.A.S.S. is the sustainability manifesto of this event, without forgetting that are many the exhibitors who will take part in the other areas of White, mixing themselves with all the other brands and excelling in terms of design and research. From Dalaleo to km/a , from Silent People to Saisei, from Regenesi to Giulia Rien à Mettre – moving to white from Touch! Neozone Cloudnine.

This season the Pitti Immagine organized event will host for the second time Green Closet, event dedicated to UK Ethical Fashion, organized by the British Consulate General Milan and UK Trade & Investment (UKTI). All together there will be represented some 15 brands – individually, by distributors or collectives – with the special by Vivianne Westwood with her bags collection produced for the Ethical Fashion Africa Project.

White and its sustainable partner C.L.A.S.S. will also go international and in these next days will start a new adventure in New York part of the Fashion Week and liked to Fashion Coterie. A total of 50 brands – 3 under the umbrella of White Goes Green with C.L.A.S.S. – and a special event, a panel organized by Parsons The New School for Design on “Rethinking Fashion: Design Responsibility”. To introduce this at the press conference was present also James Mandolia, Fashion Marketing Director at Parsons.

In Milan White becomes Green

White fashion show in since ever the most innovative event during Milan Fashion Week.

Already in 2007 thanks to From Somewhere designers Orsola de Castro and Filippo Ricci, White started a small section dedicated to Sustainable fashion called SloWhite, but lasted just one season. Later in february 2009 Ethical Fashion Show attempted a “number zero” in collaboration with White, with more or less the same result. Press coverage was interesting but the little business generated convinced both parts not to repeat the event.

In all these years C-L-A-S-S, with their peculiar concept of sustainability, continued to curate a small section as part of the main event, involving diverse and often interesting brands.

Now a new section has been created. White Green will present 17 brands (@ the 11 sept 2011), most usually part of Selection by C.L.A.S.S. and few new entries. Interesting how some sustainable brands like km/a and Caira Design decided not to be included in this section.

km/a undercover

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